The US has announced the lifting of its embargo against French foie gras imports.


The French agriculture minister has announced that the US embargo placed against the imports of French foie gras and other meat products has been lifted. However, the ethical row surrounding the dish remains firmly in situ. Indeed, as the row over exports from France to the US subsides, European moves to outlaw traditional feeding methods for geese may prompt another political battle.


In February 2004, following an visit to France by American veterinary services, the US decided to place an embargo on the imports of French foie gras and other meat products. They claimed that French food hygiene standards for these products were untrustworthy. On 17 October, Herve Gaymard, the French agriculture minister announced that US authorities had agreed to lift the embargo, allowing American consumers to enjoy French foie gras this Christmas.


When the embargo was introduced in February, the measure was expected to have little economic impact on French producers. It is possible that this embargo was, to a great extent, politically motivated rather than brought about over genuine hygiene concerns. In 2003, French foie gras exports to the United States accounted for only 1% of the 16,500 tonnes produced in France.


The dish is regarded as a specialty throughout Europe and is eaten most commonly as a festive or celebratory meal. Despite its popularity, foie gras – literally ‘fatty liver’ – is at the centre of an ethical row regarding the treatment of geese in the preparation of the dish.

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The geese are put through stomach and neck expansion exercises over a twelve-week period prior to being fattened up on a diet of high-energy food, such as corn and maize. The practice, which involves force-feeding the animals vast amounts, can cause them serious health problems and is viewed as unacceptable by many animal rights groups, attracting the scrutiny of the Council of Europe.


Under a Council of Europe directive, the foie gras industry has been given fifteen years to find alternative methods by which to produce the dish. However, the quest to find a less controversial method of feeding the geese may quickly be submerged by more political wrangling. Although the US has given the green light to restart imports, many French will be implacable in their opposition to any potential EU moves to outlaw traditional foie gras production. French gastronomes are unlikely to accept willingly Brussels’ interference in their culinary treats.


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